November 17, 2011

A Drive Into Central Oregon

While I've been to Portland, OR a few times, I had yet to venture into the beauty of Central Oregon.  In the summer of 2011, I had the chance to visit some old friends that recently moved there after a visit in Portland.  The beauty of the northwest US is alive and well in the people, the natural beauty, and the food.

Portland, OR
When talking to people, Portland can be hard to explain for those that haven't experienced it.  Even harder for those that have never been to the west coast.  My best explanation to a Californian (like myself) would be to take equal parts San Francisco, Santa Cruz, and the western side of Lake Tahoe, mix them all up, throw in some cool weather, and out comes Portland, OR.  While this may seem like an insult to some Oregonians, I can assure you, it is a huge complement given that these are three of my favorite places ever.  To have them mixed into one spot is fantastic.

Voo Doo Doughnut's "Maple Bacon
Bar" & the "Oh Captain My Captain"
Portland isn't just a mix of mountain folk and hippies (though they aren't missing).  You get entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, and regular business types too.  My favorites would have to be the restaurateurs though.  Big surprise, since I love food.  Some of the most interesting stuff comes out of Portland, from food trucks, to classy meals, good beer, and doughnuts.  My quest to hit all the shops from Travel Channel's "Doughnut Paradise" continued in Portland with Voo Doo Doughnut, now with two locations.  While I've only been to the original spot, I noticed it got an upgrade on this latest visit.  I think they needed to accommodate all the visitors, and they're queue works a lot better now.  It's cash only there, so make sure you have some on hand for their standard, raised doughnuts or one of their other deliciously devious doughnuts like my favorite, the Maple Bacon Bar.
Steel Bridge, Portland, OR

Portland is more than food though.  Set along the Willamette River (right near the Columbia), it is a city of gorgeous bridges and sights as well. I've found that this city recharges my west coast battery just as well as the three California locales that I feel mix together to make this place.





Central Oregon
Departing Portland early on a Monday morning, I meandered my way to Bend over several hours.  Had I driven straight without stopping, the trip could take around 3-4 hours, mine lasted about twice that.  Between stops for random photos, breakfast, and just taking time to enjoy the gorgeous, wild wonder of this part of the country, the time was well spent.

Boone's Ferry Crossing
My first stop was just off Highway 5, south of Portland along the Willamette River to photograph the Boone's Ferry Crossing railroad bridge above a little mooring area in Aurora, OR.  The bridge caught my eye from the highway and I took the next exit, wandering little roads until I found the mooring spot.  The serenety of the river as well as the beauty of the aged bridge just captivated me, and the quietness of the little docking area set my mind at ease.

Shirley May's Kitchen
I soon headed east towards the forests and ranges of central Oregon along Highway 20.  While skipping along in my rental car, I passed an old A&W burger boy in front of a little roadside diner called Shirley May's.  I hadn't eaten and ventured in.  I was greeted by, what appeared to be someone's great-aunt's living/dining room area.  Knick-knacks and tchochkes filled the walls, part of the lunch counter, and the shelves throughout the establishment.  Locals sat at tables, looking at me warily, but friendly as they ate what I could only discern as pancakes, though the seemed to be more like hubcaps for a semi-truck by the size of them. I took a seat at the bar, perused the cash only menu, and settled on an order of biscuits and gravy.  What I was provided with for around $5 (to include my coffee) was a MOUNTAIN of food that I couldn't finish.  Not that it wasn't delicious, it was just so much.  I should have known to order the half plate when I saw the pancakes.

Fly fishing south of Foster Lake
Back on the road with a full stomach, I soon found myself in Sweet Home, OR.  Yes, that is the actual name of a city.  I took the name as a place to wander and set my photographic eye on things.  The man-made Foster Lake provided me with some gorgeous photos of fisherman and beautiful waterscapes.  I also stopped in at a little roadside market to pick up some wine and cigars as gifts to my soon to be gracious hosts in Bend.  There is nothing grand about this little town, except the beauty in the scenery and the freshness of the air.

Mountain crossroads west of
the Willamette National Forest
Further east along Hwy 20, I encountered the grandeur of the Willamette and Deschutes National Forests.  This is what I expected from the "Great Northwest".  Between the beautifully treelined mountainscapes and snowcapped mountains in August, I realized how much I missed the western US' natural treasures.  I smiled to myself the whole way through as I stopped randomly at campgrounds, scenic overlooks, and even at small spaces along the road to admire and photograph things that have barely changed in thousands of years.  I drove through towns like Sisters, OR, that could have been the setting for an 80's B-level comedic ski comedy, but it was the genuine thing.  The shops had the look of a western town, but were not constructed to just "look" like that.  They had the feel of the real thing.

Snow peaked Mt. Washington
Trout River Campground,
Willamette Natl. Forest
Bend, OR
The next town over was my destination for the day: Bend, OR.  One of my oldest and best friends recently moved his family there and they were kind enough to house this nomadic citizen for a couple evenings and take time out of their week to show me the beauty of Bend.  The downtown area was filled with walkers and is a much slower pace than an East Coast like NY or even DC.  I had to remember my West Coast roots and slow down while walking through town.  People smiled as they walked by, the sun was shining, a slight breeze flittered by, and I could breathe.  It was nice.

The people themselves were much less "granola" than I expected for a mountain town in Oregon.  Instead they were relaxed, yet entrepenurial 30-somethings that were more outdoorsy than crunchy.  I was impressed by the number of micro-breweries in town (more than a handful), and loved that many offered brew-pub options (FOOD!).  My friend and his fam took me to McMenamins Old St. Francis School for appetizers, dinner, and beer sampling.  It did not dissapoint.  My one shout out (besides the fantasticly large beer sampler) was for the Cajun Tater Tots... they're like warm, crispy BBQ potato chip flavored tastiness.

Tumalo Falls, Bend, OR
My short trip to Bend was highlighted with a visit to Tumalo Falls, a gorgeous waterfall fed by the Deschutes River.  I've always been in love with rivers and waterfalls.  I think my time camping in the Sierras as a child contributes to this.  Their power and beauty captivates me.  A short quarter mile hike up to a scenic outlook from the parking area is nothing to scoff at.  Make sure you take water and don't push your lungs a this higher altitude if you live closer to sea level (like I do).
Deschutes River, Bend, OR

The remainder of my trip was spotted with a visit to the Bendistillery (some of the best gin and vodka I've ever tasted), a hike along the Deschutes, and more great food and company at my friends' home.  I definitely see another visit in the future to this hidden gem of a city.



More photos from Oregon can be found here.

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