June 28, 2011

Hagerstown, MD and the Quad State Area: Just Holding On

Picture from Quad State Tourism I-81
In February of 2011, I was planning on attending my company's annual ski trip in Pennsylvania.  While plans for that fell through, I had already paid for a hotel nearby in Hagerstown, MD and found that I needed a long weekend away from work and my normal routine.  This area is also known as the "Quad State" area because of the proximity of Maryland, Pennsylvania, West Virginia and Virginia.

I drove up on an unusually warm Thursday afternoon in winter to check in to my accomodations at the Ramada Plaza Hotel. The hotel had an old school feel about it with large comfortable rooms, though it was generally new or perhaps recently remodeled.  The staff checking me in looked at me funny, almost as if I didn't belong, or maybe it was because there was a stamp collecting convention scheduled for the next day and they thought I was a part of it.  Regardless, they were still friendly.  The hotel itself isn't far from some retail outlets and across the highway from a mall, but I wasn't in the mood for a retail weekend.  I needed to explore and immerse.

In my room, I connected to the free wireless internet and did some searching for a place to go for dinner that was more "local" than the Olive Garden across the street.  I found a place that looked interesting and mapped out some directions.  I got in the car and drove through what I can only assume is the downtown area of Hagerstown to get there.  Despite numerous highways intersecting in the city, the downtown area almost seemed like an area that was barely hanging on: old buildings (some boarded up), a few businesses, and hardly anyone walking the sidewalks.

The Corner Pub, Hagerstown, MD
I found the Corner Pub on (yes, you guessed it) the corner of E. Mulberry and Baltimore streets. Parking was easy to find across the street, and I wandered in past the patrons outside enjoying a smoke.  Inside was exactly what I was looking for: a quaint dive with plenty of regulars.  A seat was found back in the corner with a view of the bar, the front door as well as the pool table area.  There was a local business having a happy hour get together around the pool table, and I swear I could pick out each of the Dunder Mifflin employee personalities as they caroused together.  The staff behind the bar knew their regulars and took care of them, but they didn't forget the outsiders either. The waitress helping me had teased hair, a friendly smile, and was on top of thing even though she was at the end of her shift. As for the drinks, I was impressed with not only the amount and variety of craft beers, but the selection of single malt Scotch and Irish whiskeys available too.  Their menu seemed like simple pub grub, and when the food arrived, it was quite delicious.  I would have liked to sample one of the 21 year old single malts, but I did want to get back to the hotel safely and without incident.

Back at the hotel, I enjoyed a cigar outside on the mild winter evening, listening to two other tobacco types talk in the distance about a variety of topics mostly centering around women at their office and some car troubles.  I eavesdropped for a while, then headed inside to the restaurant attached to the hotel.  There I found the lounge portion of the Fireside Restaurant and Lounge for my nightcap.  There were both locals and hotel guests sitting at the bar and small tables, and I found a place at the bar to make my order.  The older gentleman tending orders was friendly and snarky (much appreciated since I'm generally the same way).  We exchanged pleasantries and I ordered myself a double bourbon (which was poured as at least a triple).  I left a hefty tip for the big pour and headed up to my room for the evening.
Firehouse in Martinsburg, WV

I awoke the next day to enjoy a decent (and complimentary) continental breakfast spread in the hotel restaurant.  I was still hungry for something else though.  The drive through the lonely town the previous night left me yearning to see more of what the area had to offer.  I hopped in the car and just started going. I found myself first in Martinsburg, WV.  It's another small town hanging on, but there the locals looked at me like I was invading their personal space.  Even from across the street.  It was odd, but I needed to take photos there.  After snapping a few up and down the main drag, I got back in my car and headed out.

I continued south along Route 11 through shut down retail areas and past dilapidated homes and buildings.  I realized that while we all have rough times, there are always people out there doing worse.  Living as close to the city as I do, I hate to admit that I sometimes forget how rough it is in some of the rural parts of the country.

The Grove Restaurant, Clear Brook (?), VA
While I watched the scenery move past me, I caught view of a sign stating I had just entered the Commonwealth of Virginia.  What?!?  That quad state thing was no joke.  Soon after I passed a run-down diner that used to be.  Pulling a quick couple of U-turns, I stopped and explored this shut-down relic in what I think is the north side of a town called Clear Brook.  Old buildings and structures like this always call to me when I'm out taking pictures.  I imagine what stories they hold from when they were open and since they've closed.  Around the back, windows were broken and I could see in.  Lights with bulbs still in them hung from the ceiling, the restroom still had a toilet installed, but the ground was covered in dirt.  In the storage entrance through the back a newer child's bicycle was leaning against a wall with flat tires.  How did it get there? Were there drifters that frequented the spot for a free roof, or perhaps teens there to drink (evidence of the empty beer bottles strewn about)?  Who knows.  Only my imagination could make up the story at this point.

Waffle House Coffee Cups
I was a little tired from driving and hungry as well, so I headed back north along 11 to see what I could find.  I wound up at a Waffle House back in Hagerstown.  It wasn't anything special, but was nice to sit in a booth, have some waffles for lunch with bacon and hash-browns (scattered and smothered with Casa de Waffle salsa on top).  Oh, don't forget the coffee either.  There's something so comforting about a visit to the Waffle House for me.  The predictably diner'ish food, the no-nonsense service, even down to the regulars and wait staff giving each other a hard-time about one thing or another.  You'll find this in any of their establishments across the country.

After lunch, I was wiped.  I headed back to my hotel for a nap and some relaxation.  After an hours sleep, I edited some photos and didn't feel like going anywhere else.  The hotel was quite comfortable and I wound up ordering room service.  The size of the burger was insane and overall quite filling and tasty.  After a couple months of busy days at work and busy nights and weekend with school at the time, just relaxing with my email off was perfect.  I did wind up wanting something sweet a couple hours later, and the dessert menu/vending machine wasn't going to cut it.

Waffle Cones at Superior Ice Cream
Back online, I found something that might suffice, and I headed a couple miles down the road to pick up some ice cream.  Within a small neighborhood in Hagerstown I found the Superior Ice Cream & Snack Bar.  The little place was a bit hard to find in the dark, but I got there.  Once inside, the bright glow of fluorescent lights hit me almost as hard as the sweet smell of hand dipped ice cream and fresh waffle cones. It brought a smile to my face remembering other little shops I'd been to similar to this. An older couple was enjoying dessert in the corner while two younger women discussed their love lives at a table in the middle of the shop.  None of them really paid me any attention as I ordered my sundae to go and hustled back to my room to enjoy it before drifting off to sleep.

The next morning I awoke early and enjoyed the complimentary breakfast again before checking out.  I loaded my back into the trunk and easily merged onto the highway back home.  These major highways crisscrossing our United States are convenient, but sometimes they help travelers conveniently miss a small town.  A small town that may need your patronage to hang on...

June 15, 2011

A Saturday in Old Town, Alexandria, VA

Alexandria Courthouse
While I do travel throughout the US, I thought my first post should be about my jumping off point.  I’ve lived in the DC area for about 5 years now, the past 3+ in Alexandria, VA.  Tourists roam freely in the streets from spring to late autumn.  There are a plethora of options along and off King St. (the main drag) for dining, shopping, and lodging.  You can even travel along it for free on the year-round trolley that runs from the waterfront to the King Street Metro station.  Boutique hotels can be found off and on King St.  Recently, I had some family stay at the Hotel Monaco across the street from market square, and thoroughly enjoyed their stay. 

Whether you're staying for a week, weekend, or just in for the day, a Saturday in Old Town starts early.  The Saturday Farmers' Market kicks off at 5:30 AM (yes, that early), and runs until 10:30.  You'll find a variety of seasonal vegetables, meats, and breads along with crafts, herbs, and various flora for sale by regular vendors.  If you have access to a kitchen, I highly recommend picking up some of the quality meats from the Lamb's Quarter.  The sage sausage is just heavenly.  

A View Near Founders Park
For morning eats, you can pick up breakfast snacks and coffee at stands at the market, or head over to The Columbia Firehouse on St. Asaph St offers a great weekend brunch at a fair price.  They have a wide variety from Greek yogurt with granola, to seared diver scallops.  The chicken and waffles isn't a bad choice, or if you're hungry I'd recommend the steak and eggs.

After breakfast, you might want to walk off some calories.  Depending on the season, afternoons can get really warm.  Take a stroll along the waterfront early to avoid the heat and larger crowds.  You can sit on a bench and watch the boats float by, or head north along the Potomac through Founder's and Oronoco Bay Parks.  At Founder's Park they have some neat markers explaining some of Alexandria's history as well.

Glass Harp Street Performer
Since you're up that way, give Bilbo Baggins a try for lunch.  Had I not been exploring Old Town by foot, I never would have found this little gem.  You can get some fresh, quality ingredients.  I LOVE their burger on an English muffin, and their global beer selection is quite eclectic.  If you're in a pizza mood, the personal pizzas will hit the spot for a good lunch too.


After all that eating and walking, you might need to relax a bit.  Head on over to the Grape & Bean on South Royal St. near King.  They're an independently owned, gourmet wine bar and coffee shop.  I thoroughly enjoy their coffees, and the staff is quite knowledgeable in their vino selection.  They have a couple tables outside, and a cozy bar area to chat and hang out.  If you take your coffee to go, have a rest at Waterfront Park just a couple blocks away.  It's a little more secluded than the waterfront area itself and almost feels like an escape from the bustle.


Live music at Murphy's
For your evening, go with the luck of the Irish.  Old Town offers a few Irish style pubs, depending on your tastes: Fraternity, Traditional (not that I've been to Ireland, just seems like it), and Upscale.  If you're up for the Fraternity style, head over to Pat Troy's on N. Pitt St (just north of King) where they have live music Wednesday through Sunday nights (make sure to check their entertainment calendar for changes).  Probably my favorite bar in Old Town, is Murphy's on King and Washington.  The fish and chips is fantastic, the wait staff handles the large crowd very well, and the entertainment (just about nightly) is always tops.  You get call back music and a great drinking crowd.  Get there early if you want a seat for the entertainment though.  If you want to go a little more upscale for your Irish evening, head over to Daniel O'Connell's on King near the river.  I love how the chef prepares their seafood, so keep an eye out for the specials or go for the pan seared tuna loin.

After your dinner at any of the Irish spots, you can move to the bar, or explore more through old town for the rest of your evening.  After a long Saturday like that, you may just want to call it a night.  Thanks for reading!